Sometime ago I wrote about trying Rock ‘n’ Roll Gold lube. I did try it, and its an odd lube to use. Its advertised as a cleaner as much as a lubricant. When using it, I found it didn’t last as long as my favourite dry Lube, Squirt.
You literally douse the chain at the cassette with this stuff, you don’t skimp with it, really soak the chain. Once you get over the strong petroleum smell, you run the chain backwards, while wiping. The solvents in the lube penetrate the links in the chain, causing any muck to raise up and get wiped off.
Keep doing this until you have a clean chain. Then reapply to get the lubricant in. Its a long winded job. The instructions do say it will remove other lubes, but I would still suggest a full clean and degrease before application. No doubt it will remove lubes from the same manufacturer, however more stubborn lubes will need a full clean.
The formulation goes deep down into the chain and traps any dirt. Then, with the energy of the chain freewheeling backwards, the dirt and grit floats to the surface so you can wipe it all off, leaving a new and clean application of lube inside the chain, where it’s needed. The lube down inside the chain creates a protective membrane to seal out dirt and moisture from the moving parts of the chain. As well as holding in place the best lube on the planet, for longer chain life, super smooth shifting and pedaling.http://www.rocklube.com/about-us.html
But, once I was happy the chain was at least lubricated I went out on a ride. To me at least, the chain was noisy, and the lube didn’t last that long. Perhaps with more applications and time it’ll prove its self a bit better.
You never know, I might give it another chance when I clean off the drive chain next time and see what happens.
I’d previously written about mucoff BioGrease, and I wasn’t impressed at the time. I’ve decided to give it a bit more of a chance. Previously I’d used it in the wheels, and it went south pretty quick.
This may of been due to the high spin speeds on the hub, the BioGrease is more designed for low rpm high sheer, such as headsets and bottom brackets. So, from here on, threads and headsets will be slathered in BioGrease, and the wheel rebuilds will be the stinky, incredibly tacky blue, which works well in high revolutions applications. So let’s see how it handles the dry summer months.
But don’t forget, any grease is better than no grease, use what you have on hand, and enjoy the maintenance of your bikes as much as riding them. After all, your bike gives you a lot, give it something back!
I went out the other day for a ride. Only the second ride for a good few months, and still had the dry lube on. I’d applied squirt lube, and this ride was very wet. I mean it wasn’t just a bit wet, it was properly chucking it down. I’d not had reason to think of the lube during the ride.
Gear shifts where remaining crisp and even, chain noise wasn’t an issue. I’d heard that Squirt was a good lube even in the damp, and this certainly was a wet ride.
Getting home, I dried off the bike, and did the ritual of spraying the derailers with GT-85, and running the chain through a rag to dry it off, the lube had gone a little runny with the rain, but it was still there doing its job.
Squirt really is a great lube and well worth the cost. It is however time to change back to the wet lube now the winter is here…
After cleaning off my drive chain, I’d decided to try a different dry lube.
Normally, my dry lube of choice is Squirt. An issue I had with squirt is one of muck,although the drive chain stays cleaner as a whole with dry lube, squirt tends to bunch up in areas with a thick mucky gloop. This often needs poking out from the chainring and jockey wheels. When dry Squirt leaves the chain slightly sticky. Rock N roll gold drys completly dry. No sticky feeling on the chain.
The proof however will be in the ride, which I’m planning a little later today. Will shifts be as crisp with this as they where with squirt? Will chain noise be evident? Only one way to find out!
The dizzying array of greases on offer is bound to confuse people. Any cycling website will all have page after page of people explaining what’s the best grease, arguing over the perceived advantages over everything else.
The truth is that a bicycle isn’t a demanding machine when it comes to grease. Any grease will do. Some, is better than none.
I do however have my favourite greases on hand for maintenance:
- Park Tool Polylube
- Weldtite TF2
- Exus EG-01
- Crystal Grease
I use the park tool grease for almost everything and anything.
The weldtite grease I use exclusively for greasing my speedplay as it’s bright red colour makes it easy to see when the old grease has been flushed out, and as weldtite is unable to tell me if it’s carbon safe, it’s used for metal contacts and pedals.
The exus is a very clingy grease that sticks to everything. I don’t use it much. And it stinks. I mean it really stinks.
Generally, don’t worry about grease, just use whatever you want to.